My host called my cell early this morning and apologized for not being around last night – he was at his girlfriend’s house and the number I had was a landline to his own apartment. I suggested breakfast, but he only had time to catch me on the way to work, so we spoke for a few minutes as I packed up my tent. I was packed and riding by 8am, which I felt was pretty impressive! It was a good thing I managed to push off that early, too, because the hostel office was understandably not pleased I had been out there.
Stealthy campsite next to youth hostel.
My distance ambitions for today were constrained by the ferry to Nova Scotia, which embarks only twice a day, once at noon and once in the evening. This gave me some time to catch up on errands in Fredericton, including replacing the dead battery on my odometer and other overdue maintenance. There is usually some component or another not working well on my bike, but the bonus tinkering time had me humming along with full functionality.
Traffic was again very light on another secondary highway heading South. It was sunny and hot, and by early afternoon a big climb had me cooling off in the shade. I haven’t needed many overheating breaks, but today it was unavoidable. While I was resting, the owner walked over and shared some of her history. Her father had worked as a railman at Fredericton Junction, which an important juncture for freight offloaded at the port in St. John. There was little other than houses, a gas station and a restaurant. She lamented the decommissioning of the rail line through town (now cycling trail) and I sympathized with her point of view.
Sugar and ice, together at last!
Barns across from my cooling spot.
A few ancient trees remain and dwarf all others.
The last 30km into St. John were hard work, with constant, substantial hills, headwinds and a flash storm that I dodged at a gas station. I was worn out from the hot climbing earlier in the day and had to take it slow in my approach. I was happy to have lots of time before my ferry departure.
Wisdom from a garbage dumpster.
Side street in St. John.
Steady at the ferry terminal.
The crew let me ride onto the ferry before the other traffic and strapped down my bike. I claimed a seat with a nice view and a power outlet for charging of gizmos, picked up some dinner at the onboard grill and logged onto the ship wifi to plan my route across Nova Scotia. The ship was an entertainment complex, with all of these features plus an onboard bar and café, movie theatre, TV news area, arcade room and gift shop. I found the viewing deck to be the main attraction and a source of much excitement. Besides the thrill of watching the shore recede and the lights of the night go by, there were constant flashes of lightning to the South. From the deck, I spoke to Hanah on my cell, which got remarkably good reception 35km from land.
There was another pair of touring cyclists on board, who turned out to have stayed at the same youth hostel I somewhat stayed at last night. At 57, they are emulating a trip their daughters had done at 16, and are now even more impressed with their daughters.
From the ferry landing it was a short, peaceful night ride along the bay to my campsite. I had my tent set up just before a gentle rain came down, although the storm never landed.
Disembarking from St. John.
Midnight welcome to Nova Scotia.
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